Should I Grade My Cards? (A Brutally Honest Guide for Beginners)

Let’s Start With the Obvious Question: Why Even Bother?

You’ve got a stack of raw cards, some look clean, others have seen better days. You’re hearing words like “gem mint” and “pop report” thrown around, and your buddy swears he turned a $10 rookie into a $200 slab flip.

So… should YOU grade your cards?

Short answer: sometimes. Long answer: only if you actually know what you’re doing (or are willing to learn).

This post is your no-fluff, no-hype guide to figuring that out—without torching your wallet or your sanity.

What Does Grading Actually Do?

Grading is the process of sending your card to a third-party company (PSA, BGS, SGC, etc.) that inspects it for flaws, assigns a 1–10 score, and seals it in a tamper-proof slab.

That slab adds trust. And in collectibles, trust = money. A raw card says “please believe me.” A PSA 10 says “here’s the receipt.”

In many cases, grading can 3–10x a card’s value. But in others? It’s just a very expensive plastic tombstone for your bad judgment.

When Grading Makes Sense (and When It’s a Money Pit)

Let’s cut the fluff. Here’s when you should grade:

• It’s a card people want: Think big-name rookies, iconic inserts, numbered parallels, or pop culture bangers (yes, even Pokémon and Star Wars count).
• It looks gem-worthy: Centering is tight, corners are sharp, surface is clean under light. Anything less and you’re gambling.
• The graded comps justify the cost: If a raw sells for $10 and a PSA 10 goes for $90, and grading costs you $25—you’re in the zone. If a PSA 9 only sells for $22? Pass.

Now for the “don’t grade this unless you enjoy pain” list:

• Base cards from junk wax era (1987–1993): There are literal landfills of these.
• Modern base rookies with 5-digit pop reports: Unless it’s a 10 and super liquid (like Prizm), skip it.
• Your childhood binder favorites: Sentimental ≠ profitable.

The 4 Grading Factors That Matter

If you’re not already looking at these every time you prep a card, you’re flying blind:

1. Centering: If it’s visibly off, don’t bother. Use a centering tool if you’re not sure.
2. Corners: The silent killers. PSA lives to dock you here. Look for whitening, dings, or softness.
3. Edges: Particularly deadly on foil or colored borders. Nicks = doom.
4. Surface: Scratches, dimples, roller lines, print defects. A harsh LED light and magnifier are your best friends.

What Tools You Actually Need

You don’t need a microscope or PhD in cardboard. You need:

• Bright LED light (not your phone flashlight)
• 10x–20x magnifier (This tool gives you both the lights and the magnifyer)
• Microfiber cloth (to gently remove dust/fingerprints)
• Penny sleeves + semi-rigid holders (Card Savers are the gold standard)

Optional but smart:

• Centering tool
• Printed grading scale

Should You Go PSA, BGS, or SGC?

Here’s the oversimplified cheat sheet:

• PSA: Best resale value. Cleanest slab. Slowest turnaround (unless you pay).
• BGS: Subgrades, thicker slab, less liquidity unless it’s a true gem+.
• SGC: Great value for the speed. Gaining steam. Excellent for vintage.

You’re not marrying them—pick based on the card and your flip goals.

Pre-Grading Is Not Optional

Here’s the move:

1. Sort your cards into 3 piles: “probably gem,” “maybe,” and “nah.”
2. Only grade the first pile.
3. If you’re unsure—you’re probably grading with emotion, not logic.

Some sellers even use a dry erase marker on semi-rigids to label their confidence level. That’s not OCD. That’s professionalism.

Don’t Grade Just to “Protect the Card”

Unless it’s PC and you love the slab aesthetic, don’t pay $25 to “protect” a $2 card. That’s what penny sleeves and top loaders are for. Grading is for adding value—not just encapsulating dust.

Real Talk: Your First Few Grades Might Suck

You will overestimate a card. You will get an 8. You will feel rage.

Welcome to the club.

Don’t let it scare you off—just level up your eye. Over time, you’ll get weirdly good at spotting flaws your past self missed. That’s when grading goes from gamble to weapon.

How to Actually Profit from Grading

Here’s the strategy CardSZN is built on:

• Source clean raw cards at shows, eBay, or low-pop sets
• Pre-grade ruthlessly—send only cards with clear upside
• Grade in batches to save cost-per-card
• Sell during peak hype windows (pre-season, playoff runs, call-ups)

Want to learn how to stretch your budget and still stack wins? Check out our budget flip strategies.

Final Word: Should You Grade?

Yes—if you’re intentional.

No—if you’re emotional.

Grading is a multiplier. Done right, it multiplies your profit. Done wrong, it multiplies your mistakes. Start small, track your outcomes, and treat it like skill-building—not slot machine luck.

You don’t have to be a PSA whisperer overnight. But if you’re serious about flips, collection value, or just leveling up in the hobby—grading is part of the game.

Just don’t send in that scratched-up base rookie from 2020 and expect magic. That’s not grading. That’s donating to PSA’s lunch fund.