How to Know If Your Sports Cards Are Worth Anything (Step-by-Step Guide)

You found the box. Maybe it was buried in a closet, under a bed, or in your parents’ attic next to a VHS copy of *Space Jam*. And now you’re wondering: “Are these sports cards worth anything… or just 800 pieces of vintage disappointment?”

Good news: there’s a way to find out. Better news: we’re going to walk you through it, step-by-step. No jargon. No false hope. Just a simple process to figure out what’s valuable and what’s better off as a nostalgic paperweight.

Step 1: Look for the Stars (and Not the Kind from AAA Ball)

Start with names you actually recognize. Hall of Famers, MVPs, All-Stars, future legends. If the guy on the card sounds like he works at your local DMV now, probably not a great sign.

Players whose cards tend to hold value:

• Vintage legends like Mickey Mantle, Hank Aaron, Willie Mays
• Modern stars like Shohei Ohtani, LeBron James, Patrick Mahomes, and Connor McDavid
• Rising talent like Julio Rodríguez, Anthony Edwards, and Elly De La Cruz

Names matter, but it’s only part of the equation. Which brings us to…

Step 2: Check the Card’s Condition

This one hurts people. A lot. That Griffey rookie might feel priceless to you, but if it’s off-center, dinged, or looks like it spent 20 years in a pizza box? It’s not getting top dollar.

Quick ways to check condition (without a microscope):

• Centering: Are the borders even on all sides?
• Edges/Corners: Any whitening or bends?
• Surface: Scratches, print lines, or mysterious goo?

Cards that look minty fresh could be good grading candidates. And if you’re wondering how grading affects value, we’ve covered the impact in our breakdown of whether sports cards are still worth buying in 2025. (Spoiler: slabbed cards still rule.)

Step 3: Find the Year, Set, and Card Number

Flip the card over—usually the bottom line will tell you everything: the year it was printed, the set it came from (Topps, Donruss, Upper Deck, etc.), and the card number. This is your key to identifying the card online.

Example: 1989 Upper Deck #1 = Ken Griffey Jr. rookie card. That’s a card people actually care about. On the other hand, 1990 Donruss #472 = a lovely red brick you can ignore.

Step 4: Look It Up (The Right Way)

Google is great for cat videos. For card values? Use actual platforms with sales data. These are your go-to tools:

• eBay Sold Listings: Search the card, filter by “Sold Items.” This shows what it actually sold for—not what someone *wants* for it.
• TCGPlayer (for TCGs): If your cards are Pokémon, Yu-Gi-Oh, or Magic.
• 130point.com: Shows best offer accepted prices from eBay.

Search smart: include the player, set, year, and condition or grade. Example: “2022 Topps Chrome Julio Rodriguez PSA 10.” If that pulls up $150+ sales consistently, you’re in business.

Step 5: Check the Pop Report

“Pop” = Population Report. It tells you how many times that card has been graded at each level (PSA 10, PSA 9, etc.). The lower the pop, the rarer it is in that condition—and the more it’s likely worth.

Here’s how to check:

• Visit PSA’s pop report or SGC’s version
• Type in the year, set, and card number
• Check how many PSA 10s exist vs. lower grades

Rarity + demand = value. If your card is one of only 75 PSA 10s and people actually care about the player? That’s a strong combo.

Step 6: Know What’s Hot Right Now

The market isn’t static. Just because a player was a legend doesn’t mean their cards are hot in 2025. Timing matters. Narrative matters. Headlines sell cards.

For example, during MVP seasons or playoff runs, players like Ohtani, Judge, or Tatis Jr. see big spikes. We talked about this more in our guide to which baseball cards are worth money right now.

Don’t just check one comp. Look at trends over the last 30–90 days. That’s where you’ll find real value—not wishful asking prices.

Step 7: Understand the Red Flags

Now for the part where we save you a few hours (and maybe some heartbreak):

• If it’s a 1990s card with a print run of 1 billion, it’s probably not valuable—even if it’s a star.
• If it has no license (no team logos, fake hats), it’s not going to move.
• If you have 17 copies of the same card and none are graded, you’re not rich—you’re organized.

Want to know what actually makes a card valuable today? We broke it all down in our 2025 sports card value guide. Bookmark it, live it, profit from it.

Bonus: Should You Grade It?

If the card:

• Is a rookie card of a player people care about
• Looks extremely clean with sharp corners and no surface issues
• Has comps showing PSA 10s selling for 5–10x raw prices

Then yes—grading might be worth it. Just be strategic. PSA bulk subs are cheaper now, but you still don’t want to throw money at a $5 card hoping it’ll 10x.

Final Thought Before You List or Toss

Your sports cards might not all be gold, but some gems hide in plain sight. With the right process—player, condition, comps, and timing—you’ll separate the real value from the bulk bin rejects.

Take your time. Look up sales, pop reports, and trends. And when in doubt, sell early and often. Holding forever is for wine and wedding photos—not Chrome refractors.

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